Farthest back, Humboldt Fog; on top, Stilton; to the right, Robiola; flat on front, Morbier.
Wine
Say Cheese!
Capturing your "cheese moment" with artisan farmhouse fromages.
BY
Ryan Sciara
PHOTOGRAPHY
Photo by Matt Kocourek

artisan cheesesWe have come a long way from the days of mass-produced and factory-made American, Pepper-Jack and Swiss cheeses on our cheese plates. Names like Humboldt Fog, Laura Chenel and Point Reyes are now staples on the American cheese table. Even your local grocer stocks selections beyond three different types of cheddar: mild, sharp and extra sharp.

I remember my "cheese epiphany" like it was yesterday, and of course it happened in France, the self-proclaimed Mecca of fromage. It was the end of a five-hour dinner at Auberge du Schoenenbourg in Alsace, and at that moment, I was the most stuffed I had and have ever been in my life. I couldn't image that I would be able to eat another crumb when the squeaky wheels of the cheese cart made its way toward our table. I don't know what caught my attention first, the number of cheeses on the cart or the unmistakable "aroma." I am always up for a challenge, especially when it involves great food and wine. I don't know what I ordered and honestly don't remember (it may have been the massive amounts of wine that we enjoyed that night), but I do remember the aromas, bouquets, textures, flavors, senses and everything else about that cheese moment — something that, to this day, I have yet to relive. The three cheeses were presented simply and perfectly with just a few pieces of warmed French bread.

I have had many other great "cheese moments" in my life and they all have one thing in common — great artisan farmhouse cheeses with simple, yet perfect accompaniments if anything at all. All you have to do to create your own cheese moment is to follow a couple of easy guidelines — buy good cheese from somewhere and someone you trust. Ask for a taste and make sure the cheese looks fresh before you buy. Avoid the shrink-wrapped and factory-packaged offerings and insist that your cheese shop cuts and packages their own cheeses.

Now that you know how to shop, let's get going on what to shop for. The perfect cheese plate should have a selection of no more than four cheeses and represent an array of milk types (cow, sheep, goat, etc.), textures (soft, semi-soft, hard) and flavor profiles (pungent, mild, sharp). The country or region of origin can also play a role in your selection — you may want to create a selection that focuses on one area or one with a more international feel. Either way, the options are endless and delicious. Use your cheese shop to help you find and prepare a sampling that fits your needs.

The governments of France, Italy, Spain and Switzerland have created laws in order to protect the individual characteristics of certain regions and their products. Name control, or denomination of origin, is a means by which these countries are able to ensure their best and most traditional wines, cheeses and other products (French Roquefort cheese, Italian Prosciutto di Parma, Swiss Emmental, Spanish Jamon Serrano) are protected by law from being copied or misrepresented.

Now the fun part — let's eat!

USA:

Soft: Humboldt Fog, Cypress Grove Farms, California
Goat's milk; white bloomy rind with edible vegetable ash; moist and light texture; clean, lemony and goaty flavors

Semi-soft: Applewood Smoked Cheddar, Carr Valley, Wisconsin
cow's milk; apple smoked and rubbed with paprika; creamy yellow interior; intense smoky cheddar flavor

Hard: Dry Jack "Special Select," Vella Cheese Co., California
aged for 16 months, pale yellow color; dry and crumbly texture; rich and mild nutty flavors

Blue: Original Blue, Point Reyes Farms, California
cow's milk, aged 8 months, milky white color with blue-green veins; creamy, spicy and lemony flavors

Accompaniments: Raisin/walnut crostini, dried fruits, nuts

ITALY:

Soft: Robiola Lombardia, Lombardy
cow's milk; washed rind (usually inedible); off-white in color; nutty, creamy and slightly fruity and salty

Semi-soft: Clarissa, Sardegna
sheep's milk, basket molded (edible rind); creamy white color; sweet, grassy and fruity

Hard: Piave, Veneto
skimmed cow's milk; straw yellow color; dense texture with mature grassy and salty notes

Blue: Gorgonzola Dolce, Lombardy
cow's milk; soft, creamy beige interior with blue-green; earthy, spicy and sweet

Accompaniments: mostarda (candied citrus and mustard), dried figs, Italian honey

artisan cheesesFRANCE:

Soft: Fromager díAffinois, Poitou
cow's milk; soft-ripened double cream (edible rind); milky white color; rich, buttery, creamy and mushroomy

Semi-soft: Boucheron, Loire
goat's milk; edible bloomy rind with creamy custard beneath rind and dense chevre in middle; mild goaty aroma with earthy flavors

Hard: Tomme díAbondance, Savoie
cow's milk; ivory/yellow color; nutty with complex vegetal notes and lingering aftertaste

Blue: Roquefort, Rouergue
sheep's milk; soft, rind-less; crumbly and moist texture; intense, lemony, complex and spicy

Accompaniments: warm, crusty baguette

SPAIN:

Soft: Torta del Casar, Extremadura
sheep's milk; dense & creamy texture; smoky, gamey & acidic flavors with sharp aftertaste

Semi-soft: Queso de Murcia al Vino (Winey Goat), Murcia
goat's milk; rounds are cured in red wine; fruity red wine aromas with sweet, fruity and creamy flavors

Hard: Manchego Gran Valle aged 12 months, La Mancha
sheep's milk; inedible rind; straw yellow in color; intense grassy, nutty and salty flavors

Blue: Cabrales, Asturias
cow's milk; cave aged for minimum of 3 months (inedible rind); grayish interior with purple veining; intense, rich, earthy and spicy

Accompaniments: apricot and almond cake, fig and almond cake, quince paste


To create your own international sampling, simply choose one cheese from each country with an assortment of accompaniments. For wine pairings, remember the rule: "If it grows together, it goes together." Choose wines from the respective countries and regions of the selected cheeses.